Continuing my great-great-aunt Bessie's diary of her voyage from Southampton to Barbados, February 1883. Bessie is settling into life on board ship, and finds there is much to enjoy.
Feb. 22nd
Had a run of 316 miles. We passed the Western Islands about 12 o’clock last night. There was great excitement today watching a vessel, five miles off, ‘homeward bound’. We have seen only two vessels since the time we left England & even then ‘twas only a glimpse. The weather is simply charming – only once have we had a slight shower of rain. Had plenty of music this eve. The gentlemen are getting up a concert for Saturday eve, & have put my name down on the programme for a song. The officers on board are getting up a ‘Christy Minstrels’ for next week, so that will be a nice change. We are getting into the Tropics now – it is really beautiful on deck. The awning has just been put up.
Feb. 23rd
Had a run of 320 miles. Nothing very special to speak of today, except that a lady got a dreadful fright about one o’clock in the morning. The sea swept up with such a force against her port, that it broke the glass & swamped her cabin. She was sound asleep at the time but awoke with the fearful noise of the crash. She was literally drenched, poor thing, & has most of her clothes destroyed – she naturally thought we were all going to the bottom of the sea.
I am agreeably surprised to find how extremely social people on board ship can be; they seem to lose all the stiff formalities of society & are glad to converse on the most friendly terms. It is amusing & interesting to find out the destinations and occupations of the different passengers on such a voyage as this. Here, you have a British Consul from the Orinoco, & there a commercial traveler bound for Santa-Fe-de-Bogota. Again, this old man is, I am told, the wealthiest planter in Barbados & that stout-set middle aged man comes from the centre of Mexico. Two of our passengers are from the S. Kensington Museum, & are going out to the Caroline Islands, a small uninhabited group in the S. Pacific, to view the transit of the Moon across the face of the Sun. They expect to meet the American Expedition at Colon, from whence both parties steam across to their destination.
Feb. 24th
Had a run of 290 miles. The weather is lovely – everything seems like dreamland & every one is as happy as the day is long.
This morning the fire bell was rung (for practice) & in a moment all the sailors were on deck with blankets, pails, & anything else they could lay their hands upon, & the hose was set to work at once. Then they ran a bell & a boat was lowered into the water in a few seconds.
Our concert came off tonight & was a great success. The place was all decorated with flags & draped at each side of the open doors of the cabins – it just looked like the boxes in a theater. We all swelled ourselves up so that the effect was really splendid. When I went into my cabin to dress there was a lovely button-hole for me, sent with the chief officer’s compliments. He had cut the beautiful geranium from the plant in his room & I have been teased ever since. It is greatly surprising to find what an immense amount of musical talent there is on board, & how indefatigable all are in their efforts to amuse. We had an interval for refreshments, during which time a collection was made on behalf of the widows and orphans of the seamen in connection with the company. We subscribed 11 pounds, which was splendid.
The passengers have already changed their clothing & it looks so nice to see them in their sun hats & white trousers. The evenings are lovely,- the stars are so beautiful & clear, & the moonlight shining on the water. It all makes us very happy. No one seems to have a thought of care. The sea is covered with the Gulf Stream weed – we have been fishing it up. It is so pretty, - with green berries hanging from it.
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mmm, I can almost feel the breeze & the heat from the sun. A welcome ray of sunshine in Britain's cold & dreary May!
ReplyDeletep.s never before encountered the expression "to swell oneself up" meaning to dress up.
Me neither. I love that phrase. It's also interesting that she says "from whence", as I do. Every time I write it for an American editor the "from" gets deleted. I was beginning to think I was going mad, or at least had been very poorly educated. Another one of those UK/US differences.
ReplyDeleteIt sounds so exotic. You can feel the excitement building as she gets nearer to her destination. And I can just imagine them all in their white gear, drinking strong colonial cocktails.
ReplyDeleteHave read Part II before Part I but am now up-to-date. Can't tell you how much I love this: I have a fascination for family diaries and this is a superb example, an excellent history source. The language is very careful and precise isn't it yet very intelligent too: fearful, dreadful, 'twas, indefatigable.
ReplyDeleteI'm ready for the next one!
I feel like it's a novel, and I can't wait until she gets to Barbados! It seems like a much nicer way to travel - concerts and promenading on the deck and dinner with the Captain and warm breezy weather. Compare to schlepping luggage through the airport, standing in interminable check-in lines, enduring the indignities of security, hours waiting in the airport lounge, followed by grueling hours cramped in a small, stuffy airline cabin (repeat as necessary)before arriving at your destination. Faster, yes, but certainly not better!
ReplyDeleteDeliciously delightful. Loving every line. What an adventure! Am in Phnom Penh airport at the moment waiting for a flight - not nearly as exciting and I'm certainly much more poorly dressed...
ReplyDeleteLove hearing about the fire drill and blankets up on deck.
ReplyDeleteWonderful. Seems like a way with words runs in your family...
ReplyDelete